Abstract
What if the future of fashion lies not in novelty, but in endurance? This paper proposes patina, the visible traces of wear, repair, and time, as a philosophical lens for rethinking design’s relationship to sustainability, identity, and value. Drawing on collaboration with Red Thai (Thái Đỏ) artisans in Vietnam, the research reimagines denim not as commodity, but as memory cloth: garments as temporal archives of land, ritual, and community. The work asks whether fashion can exist outside imperatives of novelty and speed, locating beauty instead in incompleteness, opacity, and repair. By framing patina as “unfashionable knowledge,” it positions endurance and imperfection not as failures but as alternative epistemic values. This paper contributes to debates on design ontology, epistemology, and axiology, inviting the DRS community to consider how time, wear, and repair might inspire alternative design futures.
Keywords
unfashionable knowledge; repair and longevity; artisan collaboration; cultural memory
DOI
https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2026.271
Citation
Vassie, M. (2026) Unfashionable Knowledge: Patina, Repair, and the Philosophy of Endurance in Design, in Simeone, L., Gray, C. M., Verhoeven, A., de Götzen, A., Bakırlıoğlu, Y., Zohar, H., Stead, M., and Buwert, P. (eds.), DRS2026: Edinburgh, 8–12 June, Edinburgh, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2026.271
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Unfashionable Knowledge: Patina, Repair, and the Philosophy of Endurance in Design
What if the future of fashion lies not in novelty, but in endurance? This paper proposes patina, the visible traces of wear, repair, and time, as a philosophical lens for rethinking design’s relationship to sustainability, identity, and value. Drawing on collaboration with Red Thai (Thái Đỏ) artisans in Vietnam, the research reimagines denim not as commodity, but as memory cloth: garments as temporal archives of land, ritual, and community. The work asks whether fashion can exist outside imperatives of novelty and speed, locating beauty instead in incompleteness, opacity, and repair. By framing patina as “unfashionable knowledge,” it positions endurance and imperfection not as failures but as alternative epistemic values. This paper contributes to debates on design ontology, epistemology, and axiology, inviting the DRS community to consider how time, wear, and repair might inspire alternative design futures.