Abstract
As a parametric medium, weaving contains different parameters. Some of these parameters may be changed, and others are fixed. The orthogonal angle between the weft and warp yarns is considered a fixed parameter. This angle is derived by the weaving reed. The reed determines the warp density and the weave width. This paper introduces the concept of a three-dimensional, variable reed. The reed affects the weaving structure by varying the density of the weft yarns across the woven fabric. Our reed is designed in a way that allows the dents to move back and forth during weaving. Changeable cardboard stencils hold the dents in position. Using the stencils, the reed’s dents may create different curves that copy themselves onto the weft yarns. This affects the weave architecture, since the weft yarns may not only be perpendicular to the warp yarns. Our reed allows new structural possibilities and new properties for woven textiles. To illustrate, a case study of a seamless, fully fashioned skirt is presented. In this case study, the length of the weft yarns along the skirt is extended using zig-zag stencils, creating a skirt with an A-shape silhouette. The variable reed opens new design possibilities for weaving and may increase efficiency by reducing production steps and decreasing waste for weaved seamless garments.
Keywords
Variable weaving reed; Parametric weaving; Seamless garment; Textile design
DOI
https://doi.org/10.21606/TI-2023/112
Citation
Cnaani, G.,and Sterman, Y.(2023) A Variable Weaving Reed for Producing 3D and Seamless Garments, in Tincuta Heinzel, Delia Dumitrescu, Oscar Tomico, Sara Robertson (eds.), Proceedings of Textile Intersections Conference 2023, 20 - 23 September, London, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/TI-2023/112
Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License
Conference Track
Advanced textiles materials and processes
Included in
A Variable Weaving Reed for Producing 3D and Seamless Garments
As a parametric medium, weaving contains different parameters. Some of these parameters may be changed, and others are fixed. The orthogonal angle between the weft and warp yarns is considered a fixed parameter. This angle is derived by the weaving reed. The reed determines the warp density and the weave width. This paper introduces the concept of a three-dimensional, variable reed. The reed affects the weaving structure by varying the density of the weft yarns across the woven fabric. Our reed is designed in a way that allows the dents to move back and forth during weaving. Changeable cardboard stencils hold the dents in position. Using the stencils, the reed’s dents may create different curves that copy themselves onto the weft yarns. This affects the weave architecture, since the weft yarns may not only be perpendicular to the warp yarns. Our reed allows new structural possibilities and new properties for woven textiles. To illustrate, a case study of a seamless, fully fashioned skirt is presented. In this case study, the length of the weft yarns along the skirt is extended using zig-zag stencils, creating a skirt with an A-shape silhouette. The variable reed opens new design possibilities for weaving and may increase efficiency by reducing production steps and decreasing waste for weaved seamless garments.