Beyond Softness: examining how vocabulary marginalises the material narrative of native British wool
Abstract
Softness has become the dominant metric through which wool is evaluated in knitwear design. This paper argues that such language privileges fibres associated with Merino and marginalises native British and regional wools with distinct breed-specific qualities. Drawing on practice-based research, material experiments with native British wool yarns, and literature on wool fibre and supply chains, we examine how existing terminology fails to support design engagement with these materials. In response, we propose a five-part framework, Place, People, Process, Properties and Practice, to support a more nuanced wool literacy. Developing richer vocabulary for native British wool is not simply a matter of education, but a requirement for more informed and sustainable textile design.
Keywords
British wool; Knitwear design; Materiality; Wool qualities
DOI
10.21606/TI-2026.122
Citation
Fletcher, Z.,and James, N.(2026) Beyond Softness: examining how vocabulary marginalises the material narrative of native British wool, in Jane Scott, Sophie Skach, and Rebecca Stewart (eds.), Textile Intersections 2026, 17-18 September 2026, London, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/TI-2026.122
Conference Track
researchpapers
Included in
Beyond Softness: examining how vocabulary marginalises the material narrative of native British wool
Softness has become the dominant metric through which wool is evaluated in knitwear design. This paper argues that such language privileges fibres associated with Merino and marginalises native British and regional wools with distinct breed-specific qualities. Drawing on practice-based research, material experiments with native British wool yarns, and literature on wool fibre and supply chains, we examine how existing terminology fails to support design engagement with these materials. In response, we propose a five-part framework, Place, People, Process, Properties and Practice, to support a more nuanced wool literacy. Developing richer vocabulary for native British wool is not simply a matter of education, but a requirement for more informed and sustainable textile design.