Abstract
Shape-changing textiles woven using high-twist yarns offer the potential of a diverse design space of three-dimensional morphologies without the need to cut the textile or to modify the loom. High-twist linen yarn has moisture-responsive – hygromorphic – properties, with the orientation of the transformation changing with yarn twist direction. Used to weave transformable textiles it offers an alternative to synthetic active yarns or non-textile actuators. The material intelligence of the high-twist linen yarn is non-linear, and S- and Z-twist yarns may be combined to increase the diversity of textile morphologies. Developed through practice-based research, a series of experiments have been woven to demonstrate the potential of this material. To facilitate understanding, and with potential as a design tool, a visual language of diagrams mapping the forces in the textiles has been developed and is demonstrated alongside the experiments. This foundational research offers a demonstration of the transformative potential of high-twist linen in woven textiles, aiming to raise awareness of this under-researched material.
Keywords
Morphic textile-forms; Weave design; Practice-based research
DOI
10.21606/TI-2026.180
Citation
Walters, K.(2026) Three-dimensional transformable textiles woven with hygromorphic high-twist linen yarn, in Jane Scott, Sophie Skach, and Rebecca Stewart (eds.), Textile Intersections 2026, 17-18 September 2026, London, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/TI-2026.180
Conference Track
researchpapers
Included in
Three-dimensional transformable textiles woven with hygromorphic high-twist linen yarn
Shape-changing textiles woven using high-twist yarns offer the potential of a diverse design space of three-dimensional morphologies without the need to cut the textile or to modify the loom. High-twist linen yarn has moisture-responsive – hygromorphic – properties, with the orientation of the transformation changing with yarn twist direction. Used to weave transformable textiles it offers an alternative to synthetic active yarns or non-textile actuators. The material intelligence of the high-twist linen yarn is non-linear, and S- and Z-twist yarns may be combined to increase the diversity of textile morphologies. Developed through practice-based research, a series of experiments have been woven to demonstrate the potential of this material. To facilitate understanding, and with potential as a design tool, a visual language of diagrams mapping the forces in the textiles has been developed and is demonstrated alongside the experiments. This foundational research offers a demonstration of the transformative potential of high-twist linen in woven textiles, aiming to raise awareness of this under-researched material.