Abstract
Regenerative textile design begins in the soil, and ends in the oneone (soil). In this paper oneone is described and articulated by Papahoa Fibreworks (Papahoa or the organisation) as their context and guide for designing a textile production system in Aotearoa. The kaupapa (purpose, foundational approach) of context based design, alongside Hua Parakore has led Papahoa to offer organically grown linen, dye plants, and dye services for the local fashion industry. As a case study, Papahoa demonstrates both soil to oneone textile processes in Waitaha (Canterbury) historically, and looks into the future of how fibre production could be remodeled in Aotearoa as a regenerative industry. In this paper the practices of the organisation show the relationship both below and above soil. The interdependent relationships of local systems, and the opportunity to achieve textile motuhake (autonomy) in Aotearoa for successful regenerative, soil to oneone production.
Keywords
regenerative, textiles, farming, Aotearoa
DOI
https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2026.1676
Citation
Rae, G., Russell, G., Burnie, S., and Cowell, N. (2026) Contextualising soil to soil textile production in Aotearoa, in Simeone, L., Gray, C. M., Verhoeven, A., de Götzen, A., Bakırlıoğlu, Y., Zohar, H., Stead, M., and Buwert, P. (eds.), DRS2026: Edinburgh, 8–12 June, Edinburgh, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2026.1676
Creative Commons License
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Included in
Contextualising soil to soil textile production in Aotearoa
Regenerative textile design begins in the soil, and ends in the oneone (soil). In this paper oneone is described and articulated by Papahoa Fibreworks (Papahoa or the organisation) as their context and guide for designing a textile production system in Aotearoa. The kaupapa (purpose, foundational approach) of context based design, alongside Hua Parakore has led Papahoa to offer organically grown linen, dye plants, and dye services for the local fashion industry. As a case study, Papahoa demonstrates both soil to oneone textile processes in Waitaha (Canterbury) historically, and looks into the future of how fibre production could be remodeled in Aotearoa as a regenerative industry. In this paper the practices of the organisation show the relationship both below and above soil. The interdependent relationships of local systems, and the opportunity to achieve textile motuhake (autonomy) in Aotearoa for successful regenerative, soil to oneone production.