Abstract
Western philosophy has often framed the gaze as alienation: for Sartre, the self fractures through being-for-others, while for Lacan the subject becomes object within the visual field. Norman Bryson (1988) expands this view by engaging Japanese thought—particularly Nishida and Nishitani—to propose a relational gaze grounded in śūnyatā (emptiness). This paper argues that Alexander McQueen’s fashion materially performs this philosophical shift. Across four feminine archetypes—the Armored, Vulnerable, Elegant, and Transformative Woman—McQueen stages a movement from confrontation to relation. Through these tensions, McQueen’s fashion operates as existential design discourse: a mode of design in which form interrogates what it means to see and be seen.
Keywords
Gaze, Existential Design, Fashion Philosophy, Emptiness (Śūnyatā)
DOI
https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2026.628
Citation
Bisevac, A. (2026) Beyond the menace of the gaze: Archetypes, dualities, and emptiness in Alexander McQueen’s fashion philosophy, in Simeone, L., Gray, C. M., Verhoeven, A., de Götzen, A., Bakırlıoğlu, Y., Zohar, H., Stead, M., and Buwert, P. (eds.), DRS2026: Edinburgh, 8–12 June, Edinburgh, United Kingdom. https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2026.628
Creative Commons License
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Included in
Beyond the menace of the gaze: Archetypes, dualities, and emptiness in Alexander McQueen’s fashion philosophy
Western philosophy has often framed the gaze as alienation: for Sartre, the self fractures through being-for-others, while for Lacan the subject becomes object within the visual field. Norman Bryson (1988) expands this view by engaging Japanese thought—particularly Nishida and Nishitani—to propose a relational gaze grounded in śūnyatā (emptiness). This paper argues that Alexander McQueen’s fashion materially performs this philosophical shift. Across four feminine archetypes—the Armored, Vulnerable, Elegant, and Transformative Woman—McQueen stages a movement from confrontation to relation. Through these tensions, McQueen’s fashion operates as existential design discourse: a mode of design in which form interrogates what it means to see and be seen.